Autumn in Aranda Bush and Garden

Here in Canberra we start to get frosts from around Anzac Day (25th April). The minimums drop from around 6-8 to below 2C fairly quickly, and plant growth grinds to a halt. 

 
The Nerines continue to give a good show (though a bit too pink for me).

The Chinese Liquidambar is late in colouring.

 Ceratostigma plumbaginoides (Plumbago) and Spirea are colouring nicely.

 

And grass seedheads nod in the breeze.

Meanwhile the Polyanthes and Fancy Kale are starting their growth towards spring.
 
Walking in the bush near our house today, the wild-life was lively. 

 

Off in the distance we could see a mob of Kangaroos mucking around in the sunshine. 

Some of the young males were boxing.

And, the yellow-tailed black cockatoos swooped into a tall gum tree, squawking as they enjoyed the sun and looked for beetle larvae or resin (not sure which).

Pinus Envy?

 Size Matters When Growing Conifers

To me, it is a wonder the way a plant that has been grown from rare seed, selected by one individual, and then propagated and distributed around the world is still that same genetic plant, selected maybe 50 or a hundred years before, and passed hand-to-hand from the individual who first held it. Growing dwarf conifers is great fun and price-wise, paying maybe $40.00 for a dwarf conifer seems cheap compared to growing many perennials for $10.00 or $15.00.

In this article I discuss one of the dwarf species and more will follow...

Pinus strobus ‘Merrimack’, the Merrimack Eastern White Pine, is a dwarf conifer growing in a rounded shape to 60 cm high x 80 cm wide. 'Merrimack'-- Sounds like a Gardener's 'Happy Meal!. Cv. 'Merrimack' has soft silvery-grey needles, and its small, squat stature makes it suitable for Japanese gardens and container (instant bonsai) growing (and perfect for bringing inside at Christmas!).

Origins. P. strobus 'Merrimack' was propagated from a seeding grown from a 'witches' broom' on P. strobus, the tallest native tree of Eastern North America, by Al (Alfred) Fordham (1911-2000), who was the head propagator at the Arnold Arboretum in Boston, USA in the 1960s and 1970s (Ref; Ref 2). 

Al Fordham with a Picea abies 'Reflexa' 
at the Arboretum (photo from Bob Fincham)

Al Fordham wrote about the propagation of P. strobus  seedlings from sports affected by 'witches' broom' in 1967 (PDF). In the article, he suggested that the witches' broom symptoms were associated with rust infection, and described the performance of seedlings grown from seed of pine cones collected from witches brooms on several conifer species (Ref 4). It is likely that Cv. 'Merrimack' is a selection from the seedlings referred to in his article. 


According to Plantwise.org, the western gall rust (Endocronartium harknessii) is restricted to North America, and causes galls and witches' broom symptoms (PDF2) on several Pinus spp. including P. strobus. However, many other references do not list Eastern White Pine as a host of this rust, and the genus Endocronartium may become a synonym of Cronartium (Ref 3). P. strobus is however affected by pine blister rust (Cronartium ribicola from Asia, but not present in Australia), which has Ribes spp. as  alternative hosts. So maybe a rust was the cause of the witches' broom symptoms from which Fordham propagated  cv. 'Merrimack'.

Pinus strobus 'Merimack'  newly potted,
 and in my garden in late Autumn 2012

What's in a Name?  Alfred Fordham’s father had been superintendent of R and J Farquhar Company, an important nursery and importer of rare and unusual plants that had been introduced by the botanist, Charles Sargent, and the plant collector, Ernest H Wilson. Al Fordham, the propagator's propagator,  worked at the Aboretum until 1977 but he continued to contribute to plant propagation research until his death in 2000.
 
The name 'Merrimack', along with other Fordham selections of Pinus banksiana, 'Chippewa' and 'Neponset', were chosen in recognition the American Indian heritage in the New England area of the US.  

Merrimac means 'swift water place', and a town of that name on the Merrimack River (below in 1910) in Massachusetts recognises the native American tribe that inhabited the area. 

Merrimac River (in 1910)

'Chippewa' and 'Neponset' are also rivers in Massachusetts named after local Indian tribes, so this may have been a common theme in Fordham's naming. The cultivars flowing like rivers to growers all over the world!

'Chippewa' in their own language means, 'to roast until puckered up'and refers to the puckering in seams of moccasins when held too close or too long toward a fire (Ref 5)


In the Niponset language, their name means 'he walks in his sleep' (Ref 6). A town on the Niponset River, Milton, is home to Baker's Chocolate, the oldest chocolate manufacturer in the USA, founded in 1780!

Milton's Walter Baker Chocolate Factory to the right on the Niponset River.

In addition to several names cultivar selections, Al Fordham, starting in the 1960's created a seed herbarium - with collections of literally hundreds of rare and unusual tree taxa, that the arboretum continues to maintain today (Ref 7) 

Growing Conditions. P.strobus grows best in well-drained soil with cool humid climates, but the natural habitat also includes boggy areas and rocky places. This suggests that cv. Merrimack may also be some what tolerant of similar growing conditions. The white pine also holds its needles well after harvest, making it popular as a Christmas tree.


Uses. White pine needles are also said to contain 5 times the amount of Vitamin C as lemons (Ref 4) when made into a tea (?) and the inner bark was considered to be a famine food by some North American tribes. It was known as "The Tree of Peace" to some native Americans.

Planting Tulips

Picture of some of the flowers grown in earlier years - with white Tree Peonies and Euphorbia.

This week we celebrated Anzac Day (25th April). Traditionally it is when we expect  our first frost and here in Canberra it is a good time to plant tulips. Seeing that some species come from Turkey, this seems like an appropriate day!

I recently bought a copy of "Bulbs in Containers" by Rod Leeds (2005). It covers flowering bulbs through the season from early Spring. Under the entry for Tulipa cretica, it notes that most tulips send out their roots late in Autumn, so the late Autumn planting makes sense. Delaying to the end of April, when we usually start to get frosts, reduces the risk of the bulbs starting to grow early and not forming flowers.

I have been growing tulips in Canberra since 1996. These days, I mostly grow my bulbs in pots. This allows me to move them to a sheltered cool dry spot over the summer, to avoid risk of rotting. With some types, I lift them from the soil, and store them in a cool dark spot under the house until Autumn. I have some tulips in the ground as well, and they do come up year after year, but often they get smaller and flower sparsely. 

Over the years, I have tried a lot of hybrid and species tulips with varying success. If I have managed to get a species type up, it usually continues OK for several years. Last summer was quite wet, and I lost some bulbs that had survived in the garden for years.

Some of the species I have grown include: Tulipa celsiana (fom B.H.Tonkin, 24/2/97) ,  Tulipa greigii (1996), Tulipa kolpatowskiana  (from Bryan Tonkin 17/3/2000), Tulipa platystigma  (from Bryan Tonkin) Tulipa whitallii (Bryan Tonkin 17/3/2000) and more recently Tulipa kaufmanniana (from Hill View). Of the earlier plantings, only three species survive (I think they are: T. celsiana some T. greigii types and T. whittallii) while T. kaufmanniana  is in its 3rd season in a large pot.

Tulipa kaufmanniana

The cultivars include: Tulip Apricot Parrot, (Windy Hill 6/2/1998), Tulip Flaming Parrot (Windy Hill 6/2/1998),  Tulip Washington (Windy Hill 6/2/1998 yellow and red early), Tulip Arabian Mystery (Windy Hill 6/2/1998) short near sweet peas violet with white edge,  Tulip Ile de France (Windy Hill 6/2/1998) red early tall, Tulip Cream Perfection (Windy Hill 6/2/1998) pale yellow, Tulip White Dream (Windy Hill 6/2/1998) late medium, Tulip Yellow (Windy Hill 6/2/1998) late medium, Tulips Yellow (Windy Hill 3/099), Tulip Ad Rem (Windy Hill 3/99) orange edge yellow, Tulip Estella Rynveld Parrot (Lake Nurseries 27/1/1998) late and good. A few of these still survive, mostly as small non-flowering bulbs, but I have lost track of their names.  

This year I am also planting: Tulipa batalinii 'Bronze Charm'- The 2012 Hill View catalogue describes it thus: Late flowers in a beautiful blending of soft yellow and faint bronzy-orange shading. Strong grower increasing well to make fine clumps over a relatively short time (so time will tell!). As well, I have the following cultivars from Vogelvry bulbs in Tasmania: Tulip 'Blushing Apeldorn', Tulip 'Queen of Sheba", Tulip 'Synaeda Show', Tulip 'Synaeda Orange' and Tulip 'Gavota'

Because we have had such a wet autumn I have planted the bulbs in a mix of bulb potting mix, cacti and succulent potting mix (which is very gravelly) with some charcoal, blood and bone and bulb food. When I was mixing the soils, I noticed that the cacti and succulent mix from Debco was much more gravelly than that from Scotts Osmocote Professional Cacti and Succulents mix - and I think the Debco mix suited my purpose better.

The pics below show some of the 2012 plantings before I covered them up. I have since planted some polyanthses in the blue pots and some chervil and Red Minuza in the grey pots to give colour and interest while the tulips grow below.

2012 Planting  -Tulip 'Blushing Apeldorn' and 'Gavota'

2012 Planting - Tulip 'Synaeda Orange' and 'Synaeda Show'

Gardens in Pakistan

It is mid spring in Pakistan, and in Islamabad, spring annuals are making a fine show. In the brief period between winter and the beginning of the searing heat of summer, col climate annuals such as ranunculus, snapdragons, statice, pansies and cinerarias are grown in bedding displays at the Serena Hotel.

The garden of the Serena Hotel is surrounded on 3 sides by the 5-story hotel. The main restaurant opens out onto a stone flagged terrace set down from the garden and reached by a semi-circular curve of two steps. The lawn of the garden undulates, small water features with fountains gurgle and a number of young trees provide height. Jacarandas, a brachychiton, weeping bottle brush in full bloom feature, along with palms and flowering bougainvillea. In the foreground, standard roses are in full bloom- the spoiled blooms being collected daily.

Dahlias

Dahlias are a bit of an old-fashioned garden plant - but they grow so well and their fleshy tubers give them some drought tolerance! Flowering and growth has been slow this year - because of the cool summer - especially the tubers that were planted for the first time in Spring.

This image of a painting by Constance Macky, from the 6th issue of Art in Australia (1919) captures the flamboyance and height of the dahlia well.

The caption in Art in Australia calls them chrysanthemums,but any gardener would recognise them as dahlias! It's growth like that in this image that I remember from the front garden of one of my Nanna Johnson's friends - Mrs Blyton, in Tinana - Rectangular beds with cement edging and cement paths between, tall plants with huge flowers, some shelter from the wind and well supported by tomato stakes.

I overwinter the dahlias in the ground here in Canberra (and maybe lift and replant every 3 years). They start to re-shoot when it warms up - just need to keep snails at bay. Fortunately, I have some blue tongue lizards living in the garden, and they have decimated the snail population in the front yard at least.


The best place to see or find out about dahlias is annual showing of local Dahlia clubs and specialist books such as this 1920 volume by Ed Pescott - Maybe somewhat of an anachronism these days!

One reliable performer is Dahlia 'Bishop of Landaff' with red flowers and maroon foliage - it only grows to moderate height and doesn't need staking

I sometimes buy tubers by mail-order or get them from Bunnings in early Spring.

These beauties - Cactus Dahlia 'Cheyenne' (Above) and Ball Dahlia 'Fire and Ice' (Below) are from the Summer  2011-12 planting.

Bilpin Plant Collectors' Fair 2010

Beaut Booty in the Car Boot!

Last weekend, we stayed in the Blue Mountains and drove to Bilpin with family on Saturday for the 2010 Collectors' Plant Fair. Guest speakers for the event included Dan Hinkley from the US and Australian gardening identity, Trisha Dixon. With over 40 stalls, it is becoming a mecca for gardeners and plant collectors of the region. Attending such events, I have only been on the first day - Pickings must be slim by Sunday judging by the buying frenzy in the first hour!

We arrived just before 10, not realising that it had started at 9 am -so the car park was full and buyers were already streaming back to their cars with various verdant treasures. Having been to the Open Garden Plant Fair at Lambrigg near Canberra a few weeks earlier, my green thumb was already pretty happy, so I first strolled from one end of the sales area to the other - looking over the selections of more than 40 stalls. it was delighful to see so many happy buyers - homing on on a long wanted treasure, seeking advice from the sellers and queueing for the coffee!

My current plant interests include the Araliaceae, the Apiaceae and Primulas, so, I was interested to find these in particular, and I was especially looking for Polycias spp. Polycias  is a genus of mostly subtropical and tropical foliage plants that are native to Asia-Pacific. I already had the fernleaved form of Polycias sold by Yamina and another broad leaved form of the Australian species, and hoped that someone might be selling some of the types from the Pacific that were common in Queensland gardens once. No luck. However I did buy the variigated Fatsia japinica and a dormant Aralia californica - Elk Clover - Fortunately, we don't have Elks in Canberra, but maybe the possums will like it! In the Apiaceae, I purchased a plant of Ferula communis (Giant Fennel) and Selinum carvifolia (Milk Parsley) (Left).

I also purchased a double blue and white forms of Prumula auricula - The varieties I bought at Bilpin last year have done well. No-one was selling Primula bulleyana, which I have from seed, with some plants now in their second season - I think I have the secret for growing P. bulleyana - I immerse the pots in water. I recently divided my plants - teasing apart each crown and getting 3 or 4 crowns from each plant. They had strong white root systems so I think they like the growing conditions. So far only a few flower heads have set seed- they didn't like the heat last summer. I use a fairly gritty potting mix for the Primulas, and add charcoal to the soil for the P. bulleyana seeing they are immersed in water.

Amongst my other purchases were:

Ensete ventricosum, a banana relative purchased bromthe Friends of the Royal Botanic Gardens Stall. I will need to keep it sheltered from the frosts here in Canberra, but I think it should be OK in a large pot to provide a tropical foliage effect next summer.

Albuca namaquensis (Syn, A.  circinata) . It hales from Namibia and has corkscrew spiral leaves and the flowers are reputed to smell like playdough!

Nothoscordum hirtellum an Allium relative with yellow flowers up to 2 cm across. There were 3 flowering bulbs in the pot and it put out new flowers a week later!. It is summer dormant, and comes from Argentina and Uruguay. It is a relative of Onion Weed (N. inodorum), a weed in warmer areas, so I'll be keeping it in a pot - although Bulbs for Warm Climates, by Thad Howard, suggests this is a non-weedy species.

The proud new owner of a prickly customer.

 

Gil Teague of Florilegium had a fine selection for the Arm-Chair Gardener.

 Bilpin Plant Collectors' Fair - 2010.

Pre-loved, hand-made and antique garden tools and paraphenalia.

Bulbs - My 2010 selections (well, at least some of them)

Last weekend, I bought a few bulb types at the Lambrigg Plant Fair, and I plan to plant some this weekend (except the Tulip - I will keep that til Anzac day). Yesterday, I moved  all of the pots of bulbs from last year's plantings from under the shade/dry of an Elderberry, where they had been for the summer. I immersed the pots in water for a while, top-dressed them with bulb fertiliser, which I then scratched into the crushed brick topping that I use to keep the bulbs cool, and rewatered. Today, I will move them to shade (for shade lovers) or sun - a couple of types are up already!

The illustration in this blog comes from on-line images of the  rare books collection at Missouri Botanic Garden Library (Also see Botanicus, the Missouri Botanical Garden's digital library portal,).

Over the years, I have lost countless small bulbs in the garden, so now-a-days, I plant them in pots, at least for the first year or two. I use terracota. The modern experts say black plastic is better, but I think this may be the case in cold climates. Here in Canberra, I think the terracotta works well ,with the planting topped with crushed brick to keep cool and reduce weeds (terracotta breathes, black plastic may overheat in late Spring) and the bulbs in pots moved to a cool dry spot over summer (at least that's what I tried this year, Spring will see if it worked!)

Some of the 2010 bulb purchases (Lambley)

Ixia paniculata comes from South Afrlca and grows on damp sandy soils . Needs room (avoid crowding) with max sun and bulb mix soil diluted with sand and some blood and bone (Ref), and a risk of weediness in Western Australia. Pictured in the ABC Gardening Australia bulb profiles.

Ixiolirion tartaricum, the blue Altai lily or Tartar lily,  a native of western Asia from Turkey and Eqypt East to Siberia and Mongolia according to Philips and Rix Bulbs. (Curiously, my Google for this bulb only gave two entries! but a lot under the common name see here). The Lambley label says it is rare in Australia, but easy to grow in hot dry spots (another post says perfect drainiage, and very dry summers, and protection from excessive wet in winter), while elsewhere it says plant at 5-10 cm.

Muscari ambrosiacum. (Pictured left) Lambley label says sun or light shade and can take summer dryness!


Muscari macrocarpum . Lambley label says grow in a spot that is sunny in winter and dry in summer. Fragrant grape hyacinth (bulb bigger than common grape hyacinth).  Native to the Aegean region of Turkey and Greece, growing at 10 to 800 m on mountain rocks and flowering in early Spring (ref)

Tulipa neustruevae The Lambley label says they're from the Tien Shan and Pamir Altai mountains and from relatively warm areas so may also suit Melbourne gardens (as well as Canberra natch) plant in sun or light shade and takes summer dryness! The web says plant 10-20 cm deep in early autumn with blood and bone or bulb booster round the planting hole and in mostly sand to some clay soils. I always think it is good if there are bulbs that can be planted deeper than the usual garden digging! See pic from "Dig the Dirt'...

I'll report progress later in the year!