Gardening in the
Subtropics : January 1994 with update - Turn over some new leaves...
Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) have a familarity that can lead to neglect when it comes to choosing garden plants. It's the associations with neat, trim stucco houses of the 50's, one hydrangea either side of the entrance: the antithesis of modernity. Not so! These old-timers have a place in the 90's garden too, be it cottage or Glenn Murcott Australian. In semi-shade, they produce fine serrate glossy leaves and plate-sized posies of pink, blue or white flowers in late spring and summer. A no-nonsense, weed-smothering, easy-care neatness that lasts the weeks of heat and summer outings when gardening-time is scarce. The flowers fade and blotch in russet autumn tones, and the leaves drop off in winter, leaving a skeleton tipped with firm, fat buds and the promise of another spring. Plant them in rows beside a wall, around deciduous trees or along a drive. They'll grow to 150 cm high and wide. Tubs in-flower on paved or gravelled areas, or at the entrance, also look great and, at the local drive-in nursery have that strong `buy-me' allure for customers after `instant-garden' effects. Plant in well drained soil. Good nourishment helps. Prune them lightly in winter, the flowers form on last year's dormant buds. Plunge the cuttings into pots or in garden beds where new plants are required, and water regularly. You'll have a brace of new plants in Spring. Pink/blue colour forms are influenced by soil acidity, pink in acid, blue in alkaline soil. Addition of copper sulphate can intensify the blue colour. White forms are soil pH neutral. Variegated forms have extra charm, but are slower growing and should be in bright shade. Several other species of hydrangeas, including climbers, are available from specialist nurseries. They may be more sensitive to the summer heat, but are worth a try in cooler spots.
Here in Canberra, I lost quite a few Hydrangea varieties during the drought years 2005-2008 so I now grow them in pots in a shady spot.
Subtropics : January 1994 with update - Turn over some new leaves... Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) have a familarity that can lead to neglect when it comes to choosing garden plants. It's the associations with neat, trim stucco houses of the 50's, one hydrangea either side of the entrance: the antithesis of modernity. Not so! These old-timers have a place in the 90's garden too, be it cottage or Glenn Murcott Australian. In semi-shade, they produce fine serrate glossy leaves and plate-sized posies of pink, blue or white flowers in late spring and summer. A no-nonsense, weed-smothering, easy-care neatness that lasts the weeks of heat and summer outings when gardening-time is scarce. The flowers fade and blotch in russet autumn tones, and the leaves drop off in winter, leaving a skeleton tipped with firm, fat buds and the promise of another spring. Plant them in rows beside a wall, around deciduous trees or along a drive. They'll grow to 150 cm high and wide. Tubs in-flower on paved or gravelled areas, or at the entrance, also look great and, at the local drive-in nursery have that strong `buy-me' allure for customers after `instant-garden' effects. Plant in well drained soil. Good nourishment helps. Prune them lightly in winter, the flowers form on last year's dormant buds. Plunge the cuttings into pots or in garden beds where new plants are required, and water regularly. You'll have a brace of new plants in Spring. Pink/blue colour forms are influenced by soil acidity, pink in acid, blue in alkaline soil. Addition of copper sulphate can intensify the blue colour. White forms are soil pH neutral. Variegated forms have extra charm, but are slower growing and should be in bright shade. Several other species of hydrangeas, including climbers, are available from specialist nurseries. They may be more sensitive to the summer heat, but are worth a try in cooler spots.
Here in Canberra, I lost quite a few Hydrangea varieties during the drought years 2005-2008 so I now grow them in pots in a shady spot.
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