Sweetpeas on Valentine's Day, Rain at last, Diplarrena spp.

 

Sweet Peas on the Footpath Spring 2002

Rain. We have been blessed with over 30 mm rain here since midnight - the perfect prelude to the Lunar New year tonight and the coming Year of the Tiger. My 5000 L rainwater tank installed just before Christmas is almost full so I am running a dripper line to ensure the excess goes in to the vegetable garden.

Sweet Peas. In the Southern Hemisphere, it is traditional to recommend planting Sweetpeas on St atrick's Day March 17th. I have found living here where we can have frosts between Anzac Day (April 25 and Melbourne Cup (First Tuesday in November) that March 17 is to late to get good growth before winter. I plant Sweetpeas on Valentine's Day - which seems appropriate. I usually grown them on a circular trellis to one sideof the vegetable garden. I dig out the soil to below spade depth and add a good amount of compost,water holding crystals and dolomite. Pile the soil back on top and water well. After the wateris drained away I plant the Swwetpea seeds at about 2 cm apart up next to te wire nettting of the trellis. A good number of seedlings usually emerge and by late April plants are usually 50 cm high - They make slow growth through winter and by Spring I am usually getting my first flowers.

Last Summer I neglected tocollect seed - it dreid out too early and set was poor so I imagine that there will be quite a few self sown seedlings coming up after this rain. I like to plantold-fshioned types and the Yates Patricia Ann are a good choice - with rippled veins of colour through the petals and good scent. The mai nuisance for sweet peas aresnails - they boldly climb into the foliage and deface leaves with relish.

If you grow sweet peas in the vegetable garden be careful not to eat the foliage or seed or feed them to animals - Lathyrus spp. contain a neurotoxin, and  horses are more susceptible to the toxin in sweet peas than humans.

Diplarrena moraea and D. latifolia, the Butterfly Flag and the Western Flag Iris respectively, are two Australian members of the Iridaceae. Here in Canberra (600 M -5 C to 40 C 35 S 141 E), I am growing D. latifolia  in a large terracotta  pot - in a well drained gravelly mix,standing on a pot saucer so it won't dry out and tucked near shrubs so it is protected from frost and to much direct sun. I bought the plant last autumn, and it has made good growth through the year - rewarding me with the first flower this week - late summer. I have seen this garden gem in mass flowering in Tasmania (Cradle Mountain) in Summer, so it is worth trying to get established! I went out to take a photo of the flower but over night rain had ruined it!

Gardening in February

Golden Weather Grass, Hypoxis hygrometrica Labill., in the Hypoxidaceae, is one of the lesser known and grown Australian bulbous plants. It occurs naturally in open woodlands in Eastern Australia preferring swampy areas or grassy forest clearings. Members of the genus also occur in Africa - the best known being H. hemerocallidea (African star grass, African potato), with reputed medicinal properties, and there are also two species recorded from Brazil.

I purchased my plant at the Open Garden Australia Plant Fair held at Huntly, a property near Canberra, last Autumn so I have had it almost a year. I am growing my plants in a pot along with a dwarf foxglove -. The soil mix includes water-holding crystals to reduce drying out, and over the summer the fox glove foliage has covered the area where the bulb is planted. The Golden Weather grass died down over winter and has been dormant for  most of the summer, and has comeup and flowered in the last few weeks. The plant seems to clump up, but I have not yet attempted to divide it. It seems to have set seed so it will be interesting to see if I can raise a second generation. While Golden Weather Grass might not win any awards for spectacular performance, it is a good addition to the garden - the summer dormancy being a particular asset in dry summers..

Tha National Library of Australia holds a watercolour painting of a group of the plants by Adam Forster, 1924.

Bulbine spp. Here in Canberra,  I have grown two species from seed - (B. bulbosa (Golden Rock Lily) and B. semi-barbata (Leek Lily) (which featured in Curtis's Botanical Magazine in 1832). The seeds of both species, and a third, B. glauca ( Rock Lily), are offered by Wild Seed Tasmania . I also grew B. bulbosa years ago, in Brisbane.

After my inital Canberra planting in 2004 (lots of seedlings emerged), I lost both species in the drought. Then a year or so later, a lone seedling of one species emerged in a pot. I kept it well-watered and it flowered and set seed. I raised more plants and now, I have lots and, it seems to spread around a bit in the garden - a sure sign that  a plant is happy! I also divided up the original plant and transplanted it into the garden where they are doing OK - but I am not sure which of the two species it is, but it's probably B. bulbosa. I have found that the plants like to be kept moist, and even tolerate some waterlogging. At the National Botanic Gardens, they grow at least two species in the rock garden where plants seem to like growing beside and amongst rocks.

Gardening Magazines

Just at the moment we are experiencing cyclic spells of heat wave, followed by days where the maximum is in the high 20s C (low 80s F). We are also in drought, so it takes 3 h every second morning to hand water the garden. The hot days are a good time to catch up on garden reading - magazines, books and plant catalogues. I regularly read several magzines that have good coverage of gardening - ideas, information and inspiration - not always climatically relevant, but great for gardens of the mind. Here are some of my impressions:

BBC Gardens Illustrated (UK) - I am a subscriber, and have read every issue.Great inspirational pictures of plants and gardens, UK, Europe, occasionally other places, interesting plant and people profiles, garden design ideas, company features and people.

The English Garden (UK) - I have bought this on order from the local newsagent since the first issue. Enjoyable features and great pictures of gardens in UK - usually fitting the season of the issue, sensible articles by authorative writers, good plant profiles.

The Garden (UK)- Magazine of the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) - received by mail as an RHS member. Crosses over into policy and science issues as well as covering gardens, plants, people and news of the Society and their famous events. Visiting the Chelsea Flower Show can be a life-changing pilgramage for the keen gardener! Finding the magazine site on the RHS website is not easy! The imitable Hugh Johnson was a columnist (as Tradescant's Diary) for many years. According to Trad's Diary (by Hugh), the column was 'in The Garden from 1975-2006, in Gardens Illustrated in 2007, and in 2008 took to the ether with new material monthly or more often. Extracts are now published regularly in the quarterly Hortus magazine, starting with the summer issue of 2008'.  On their website, I recently enjoyed watching a podcast - conversation between Roy Lancaster and Beth Chatto which included Beth's memories of Christopher Lloyd.

Hortus (UK) - I occasionally buy collections of back issues and read the current issue highlights on the magazine's website - These are budget ways to acess the timeless articles written by the 'creme de la creme' of garden writers.

Gardening Australia - Many articles align with contemporary topics and stories covered by the ABC's "Gardening Australia' TV program, now hosted by exotic plant authority, Stephen Ryan. I tend to browse and buy occasionally when there is a topic that interests, or I need to access the latest in advertisements for seasonal buying of plants and bulbs. Useful video links on the website such as one on rose pruning. Useful range of fact sheets on the website.

Burke's Backyard (Australia) - Covers gardening and plant topics and other issues and ideas relevant to the back-yard - pets, BBQs, handy-man projects. I am sometimes tempted to buy by copies for plant focussed articles or special topics (how to pave  or build a stone wall). The  famous Fact Sheets - which started when Burkes Backyard was also a TV program - are a great resource. I used to like to count the number of pictures of Don Burke in each issue!

Your Garden (Australia) - As the website says: It "stands for quality, reliability, adaptability, excellence and resilience". How else could a gardening magazine maintain its position in a fiercely competitive market for nearly 60 years!" The doyen of Australian Gardening magazines - my first introduction to the world of possibilities in the garden when I was just a kid - my first purchases were 3 bonsai plants and 3 bonsai pots for $1.50 for 3 plants and the same for 3 pits! Once people would buy the magazine just for the advertisements - the lists of rare and unusual plant nurseries and garden-supply companies - but specialist articles and regional columns are also a feature. Maybe I'm biased because I wrote the 'Gardening in the subtropics' column for 7 years (1988-1995), but it is still my favorite Aussie gardening magazine. Sadly now only produced quarterly, and the direct access website seems to have been disabled.

Horticulture Magazine (USA) My first introduction came from back issues bought at a book fair - this magazine is memorable for its fine writing - good coverage of specialist topics and plants, regional columns that are a good read even when you live in a completely different climate and the advertisements - enticing insights into possibilities that may be beyond the boundaries of climate and quarantine! Back issues are available on CD ROM!

Fine Gardening (Taunton USA). I was a subscriber for many years - hearing about its launch through it's sibling magazine 'Fine Wood Working'. Both are based on a reader-written philisophy, and FG can have good coverage of particular plant groups, but with a emphasis on temperate climates. I no-longer subscribe - the rise of some of the British magazines tempted me away

Country Living (UK) - I have bought this on order from the local newsagrent since about 1993 - Still have most back issues - except for one month when a new staff member put aside the USA version instead of the UK edition! More a lifestyle magazine than strictly gardening, but the profiles of country living and lives, the features on country houses, gardens and occasionally, plants, the regular columnists and profiles on things to buy and the Editorials by Susy Smith are all an inspiration, even 'down-under', and can be re-read again and again.

Country Life - A periodical that focuses on upper-class life in the countryside, and features stories (and for-sale advertisements) on homes ranging from the very grand to the quirky and quaint. This magazine is often available in local lending libraries in Australia - it merits attention because it formerly published a gardening column by the late Christopher Lloyd, and in a much earlier time, Vita Sackville West. I used to like to read Lloyd's column. The gardening section is still worth a read. Also, the cartoon is  often a laugh.

Hydrangeas

Gardening in A Warm Climate - Articles from Brisbane in 1994 - originally published in Your Garden magazine.

Gardening in the Subtropics : January 1994 with update - Turn over some new leaves...

Hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) have a familarity that can lead to neglect when it comes to choosing garden plants. It's the associations with neat, trim stucco houses of the 50's, one hydrangea either side of the entrance: the antithesis of modernity. Not so! These old-timers have a place in the 90's garden too, be it cottage or Glenn Murcott Australian. In semi-shade, they produce fine serrate glossy leaves and plate-sized posies of pink, blue or white flowers in late spring and summer. A no-nonsense, weed-smothering, easy-care neatness that lasts the weeks of heat and summer outings when gardening-time is scarce. The flowers fade and blotch in russet autumn tones, and the leaves drop off in winter, leaving a skeleton tipped with firm, fat buds and the promise of another spring. Plant them in rows beside a wall, around deciduous trees or along a drive. They'll grow to 150 cm high and wide. Tubs in-flower on paved or gravelled areas, or at the entrance, also look great and, at the local drive-in nursery have that strong `buy-me' allure for customers after `instant-garden' effects. Plant in well drained soil. Good nourishment helps. Prune them lightly in winter, the flowers form on last year's dormant buds. Plunge the cuttings into pots or in garden beds where new plants are required, and water regularly. You'll have a brace of new plants in Spring. Pink/blue colour forms are influenced by soil acidity, pink in acid, blue in alkaline soil. Addition of copper sulphate can intensify the blue colour. White forms are soil pH neutral. Variegated forms have extra charm, but are slower growing and should be in bright shade. Several other species of hydrangeas, including climbers, are available from specialist nurseries. They may be more sensitive to the summer heat, but are worth a try in cooler spots.

Here in Canberra, I lost quite a few Hydrangea varieties during the drought years 2005-2008 so I now grow them in pots in a shady spot.

Summer 2010

Growing from Seed. In early summer, I planted a range of seed from Nindethana, a Western Australian company that specialises in Aussie plants. I had ordered seed earlier in the year, and waited until it was warm enough before planting. Growing from seed is a way of getting uncommon plants cheaply, and of trying things that 'stretch the climate boundaries'. This season, I have planted a range of herbaceous plants, as well as shrubs and trees, and so far only a few have emerged - Abutilon geranoides, Alyogyne hueglii, Brachychiton gregorii (The Desert Kurrajong), Bracychiton megaphylla (Big Leaved Kurrajong), Eryngium pinnatifidum, Erythrina vespertilo (Bat's Wing Coral Tree) have emerged. I have not had success yet with two other species of Brachychiton (diversifolius and discolor), a Baobab, and the native crepe mytrle (Lagerstroemia archeriana var. divaricatiflora) as well as other plants.

Batswing Coral Tree. The batswing coral tree seedlings (right) shot out of the ground and are already about 20 cm high. It occurs naturally in Northern Australia and is probably frost tender. There were some planted at the Australia National Botanic Gardens (ANBG) during summer 2008, and they seem to have survived and thrived when I saw them this week. In Europe they grow the Erythrina crista-galli  (pictured above) in the perennial garden bed (It's considered a noxious weed in Northern NSW), cutting it back to ground level over winter. This may be a way of growing E. vespertilo here in Canberra.

Brachychitons. The kurrajong (Brachychiton populneus) grows well in Canberra. it seems to take the cold weather OK.

I have grown Bottle trees (B. rupestre) in pots over two seasons - I keep them in a frost free spot over the winter, with part shade during the day in summer. (The picture (left) shows a Bottle tree in the Royal Botanic Gardens, Sydney) .

So far my pot-grown specimens are doing fine - one is about 2 m high. I plan to transplant them into the garden. As the Bottle tree grows naturally in western Queensland in areas that get frosts and it drought tolerent, it may be OK here in more sheltered spots.

I am also trying two hybrids - obtained as grafted plants from Yamina Rare Plants in Victoria - Brachychiton ' Clarabelle', a cross between B. discolor and and B. populneus, and B. X 'Bella Donna' a cross between B.acerifolius and B. populneus. The former may be the more cold tolerant as it has Kurrajong parentage.

The Illawarra Flame Tree (B. acerifolius) is growing in the rainforest area of the National Botanic Garden, and there is also one in a home garden in Aranda, under the protection of a big gum. The Flame tree is native to the coastal areas of NSW and Queensland in rainforest - It flowers in Spring after dropping its leaves - I have not seen the trees in the ANBG in flower.

April 2009

Gardening in Canberra

April has brought rain. We are well on track to reach or exceed the monthly average! On the 19th we went to a rare plant fair at Bilpin in the highland behind Richmond (On the road to Mt Tomah). It was a great day for acquiring unusual plants - I purchased the hybrid Brachychitons 'Belladonna' and 'Clarabelle', two Primula auricula and Primula X kewensis, the shrub relative of Camellias - Sinocalycanthus chinensis' and a few other 'wants' including an Hacquetia (Apiaceae).

Last week Urban Services commenced removal of a large gum from our front nature strip. It was leaning dangerously towards the house. This prompted a renovation of the driveway garden and I have planted one of the Brachychitons there, sheltered by a large Cotoneaster.

I potted the Primulas in a mix of sieved peat, sand, potting compost with added seaweed slow release fertiliser, some perlite and a good amount of drainage (crushed bricks) in the base. They are establishing well (picture opposite). In last few days, we have had over 40 mm of rain, and the temperatures are dropping. We expect frost before the end of the week.

Traditionally, Anzac Day is the time to plant tulips in Canberra - as the soil temperatures start to drop. I followed the rule and planted up two hexagonal pots with parrot tulips (Weber's and another one) - refreshing the soil in the pots with store bought bulb soil. The soil in the pots has a high proportion of brick chips and is well drained. In doing the replant I had to relocate the summer dwellers - two types of rosette succulent - to the banksia and driveway gardens. I overplanted the tulips with a perennial snapdragon that had been in one pot for the summer. It was thriving - I think appreciating the loose soil mix amended with water holding crystals. In potting in the tulips I discarded the top part of the soil mix that had most of the water holding crystals as these may not be good for them in winter. Also potted up Tulip 'Queen of the Night' in two squat green glazed pots - adding back a yellow leaved succulent to one side.

Gardening in a warm climate.

The following was first written for Gardening in the Sub-tropics in Your Garden Magazine in 1994.

As we slide into Autumn, the promise of Spring still lies ahead. April is often the main month for planting seedlings for the Spring display, either store-bought or grown from seed planted in early March. As the weather cools, self-sown annuals also emerge. Light waterings every evening ensure that the tiny germlings of poppies survive. Watch for their distinctive pale green leaves and remove other seedlings that may crowd them out.

Mulching is tricky when self-sown seedlings are wanted, a thick mulch will smother weeds and plants alike. I only mulch lightly during autumn, leaving patches of bare soil where small seedlings can grow. Vigourous, heavy seeding plants like Cosmos that grow all year round (in Brisbane) can also interfere with the emergence of the more delicate spring flowers. Cull out all plants from parts where self-sown Spring annuals are hoped for. I help my poppies along by over-sowing with seed from the previous crop that I have saved indoors. Thin emerging seedlings ruthlessly. Move some to other parts of the garden. Once the seedlings are up and away, some mulch can be carefully placed between individual seedlings. Be careful, contact with seedlings, especially in the crown, can encourage grey mould (Botrytis cinerea) and Sclerotinia rot in showery weather. Ultimately, when self-sowing is being encouraged, major mulching is best done at the end of Spring. I lift out the spent annuals, apply a good thick mulch, and reapply the remnants of the annuals (In Canberra, Autumn is the main time to mulch). Seed from the spent plants then lie at the top of the mulch layer, a good position for enhancing survival.

Last Autumn, seedlings of Oriental poppies Papaver orientale were available from local nurseries. These are really perennials, and often don't make sufficient growth to flower in the first season. In our climate, getting the dormant plants through summer, and remembering not to dig-over where they rest is a challenge. Those plants that have survived the summer need to be well fed to encourage abundant growth while it is still warm. The plants grow up to 1 m with large, hairy foliage and produce dessert-plate sized flowers. The plants die down again in early summer, so a late Spring fore-ground planting will ease their passing. It's worth saving seed of any plants that do flower, you may select a strain more tolerant to our climate.

Peony poppies pop up in April, along with Flanders and Shirley poppies (Papaver rhoea). Their smooth, glaucous foliage suggests an affinity for dolomite. The plants appear quite striking even before flowers appear. Peony poppies grow to 1.5m, so early staking will provide support for later flowering. If you have the double-flowered type in your garden, cull any singles that emerge to ensure maximum numbers of doubles next season. In the 1993 season, I had a good number of double white plants, grown fron a single plant that sprang from nowhere the previous year. With dessert-plate sized flowers resembling hemispheres of crumpled white tissues emerging delicately from plump, celadon buds, the flowers are sure to be envied by all who pass. Thin peony poppies to 1 m apart. Grow them in full sun and keep well watered. Avoid overhead watering at flowering, petals on flowers and opening buds can brown, marring the display. Unlike their Oriental cousins, Peony poppies appear to like our climate, they're well worth growing.

Gardening in March - Canberra

It is the last day of March and we have had virtually no rain for 2 months - this places a great strain on the plants and the gardener. It has also been extra warm for March. Even today it was 32 C in the front of the house.


The sweetpeas that I planted on Valentine's Day are growing well - this way they make enough growth before it gets cold. In Canberra, planting on St Patrick's Day is too late. I have also planted anemones and ranuncus in pots. All of the ranunculus (well, 80%) are up, but so far only 2 anemone (8 %) have emerged. I have also planted a range of bulbs ordered from Hillview Nursery in Tasmania and Anemone nemorosa .

Gardening in March - Brisbane

This was originally written for a 1999 Gardening in the Sub-Tropics column in Your Garden magazine.

In the last few days, a passionfruit vine has appeared at our bedroom window. Climbing straight upwards, caressing the glass, the tendrils clasp the insect screen, anchoring its claim on our familiar arboreal view. Silhouettes of the large trifoliate leaves and curling tendrils aglow with the morning sun add a tropical flavour to our awakenings. The vine is a lusty competitor for a climbing rose, `Mermaid', which provides a thorny frame on which to clamber. Later, I expect to reap a harvest from this impassioned growth.

Silhouettes are an overlooked aspect in plant selection and placement. Literally the plant's profile, a plant's silhouette can improve garden vistas in early morning or evening light, and enhance moon-light garden-viewing. As well as the silhouette, there's the radiant glow of golden afternoon light bounced back from within foliage and flowers. Photographs taken at this time have an extra mellowness. As I finish off a gardening day, I often admire a late-afternoon-view of my plant-lined driveway looking out through the garage doorway, framed by virginia creeper (Parthenocissus inserta). Tall sword-leaves and butterfly flowers of blackberry lilies (Belamcanda chinensis), a tall standard rose, `Buff Beauty', and in the distance, palms and a mango tree are silhouetted against the sky. The leaf edges and the orange flowers have a translucent glow. Depending on the season, yellow nasturtiums and their circular leaves, coreopsis, pale pink storm lilies, daffodils shivery grass (Briza major) and maroon dahlias are tossed by gentle breezes and radiate the evening light. The virginia creeper clings and hangs around the garage entrance, along the verandah railing and the soffit above. Stray stems hang from ceiling to rail. Each five-bladed leaf is outlined against the sky. In autumn, if the larvae of hawkmoths don't devour them all, the leaves glow red, a token cool season gesture in this warm climate.

Immediately in front of the verandah, a Jacaranda provides summer sun shelter, spring mauve mist and a golden winter tribute. Blue skies and magic moonlight twinkle through the leafy veil. Night-time silhouette-magic is enhanced by the heady perfumes, Portwine magnolia (Michelia figo), mock orange (Murraya paniculata) and frangipanni and tinkling wind chimes.

My front footpath garden faces due west, so morning and late afternoon sunlit glow is an important feature of these favourable times for garden viewing or doing. If your garden can also exploit silhouettes and sun-glow, consider the colour and profile of the spring annuals and bulbs that are now being planted, and the perennials that will go in later. Whites, yellows, pinks and mauves are enhanced by the setting sun, a homecoming welcome glow in the fading light.

Last Spring, my sweetpeas were the best I have ever grown, the result of not-too-much mulch underneath, ample dolomite at planting, and a cool spring. Most of the flowers were pale mauve, a resonant colour in late-afternoon light. Plant some this month.